Sustainable fashion is such a big topic that it can get overwhelming. What is best? Is it certified organic, recycled, or second-hand? You are likely to find an expert that will tell you one of these is better than the rest.
So how do you make sense of all the information?
Learning about sustainable fabrics is a great place to start your eco friendly fashion journey.
And luckily, eco friendly fabrics are not that hard to come by. For example, a lot of affordable, sustainable clothing is made from simple materials such as linen and organic cotton.
In this article, we’ll cover everything you need to know about them. We will talk about what types are available and the pros and cons of each material. We’ll also help you choose eco friendly fabrics that will last for years to come.
Sustainable Fabric 101
Using sustainable fabric is the first step to producing sustainable clothing. But what is it, and how does it stand apart from traditional materials?
First, it benefits the people and the planet alike.
Sustainable fashion is about respect for the environment and the people who make and wear the clothes, from raw material sourcing, processing, and waste management to ethical production. All these factors contribute to the fabric’s sustainability.
Moreover, some brands go as far as ensuring positive community impact outside of their factories.
Here is how eco friendly brands do it:
Low Impact on the Environment
When it comes to any product you buy, the lower its environmental impact, the better. Disrupting ecosystems can have unexpected and devastating effects. Suitable for nature means minimizing any footprints.
Does it sound over-simplified?
The idea is simple, but it’s not that easy to implement. Here are some of the boxes that sustainable materials have to check:
- Uses minimal water and energy to minimize the product’s carbon footprint
- Doesn’t destroy the rainforest to make agricultural space or source wood for cellulose
- Doesn’t contribute to soil erosion from poor farming practices
- No GMO species were used for sourcing the fiber
- Uses non-toxic chemicals, like natural dyes or closed-loop processing that reuse chemicals
- Free from animal cruelty at any point in the process
- Has sustainable end-of-life with easy biodegradation and no toxic byproducts
Does any fabric ace each of these requirements? No, of course not.
Yet, sustainable producers strive to do better on each of these factors. Some select new partners while others innovate their processes. In sum, all make a conscious effort to get closer to zero impact.
Beyond environmental factors, here’s how sustainable materials also benefit workers.
Positive Effect on Communities
There are far too many human rights issues with the fast fashion industry, from poor agricultural practices to toxic processing. The effects of non-sustainable fiber sourcing affect millions of people worldwide.
Moreover, some estimates suggest that 93% of workers in the textile industry do not receive fair pay.
Producers often pay sub-living wages or even use child labor to maintain low costs, which keeps people living in poverty.
Sustainable fabric sourcing aims to change that.
Farmers and processing workers earn fair wages and are safe from toxic chemicals. Minimizing the environmental impact has a direct positive effect on communities, too. People have access to safe drinking water and mineral-rich soil for food production.
Some brands also focus on traditional textile production methods. Trading fairly with artisans preserves centuries-old techniques like weaving and block printing. It gives communities a way to grow without leaving their traditions behind.
The Right Fabric for Each Garment
Finally, sustainable fashion also means choosing the optimal material for each garment.
Let’s take synthetic fibers as an example.
There are perks to using synthetics for athletic wear. These fabrics can keep you cool and dry even in the most strenuous Spin class.
But, a lot of everyday apparel is also made out of synthetic fibers. Natural fabrics like cotton and linen will be a better choice. They are breathable and better for the environment.
So, while synthetics make sense for sportswear, they’re not necessary for most everyday clothes.
Besides, even activewear can be more eco friendly. For example, merino wool garments are soft, lightweight, and naturally breathable. They can absorb up to 30% of water without feeling wet. They are the perfect choice for winter sports.
Natural, Plant-Based Fabrics – the Foundation of a Sustainable Closet
As a rule of thumb, natural materials will always be more sustainable than synthetic fibers. But, the way these plants are grown and processed makes all the difference.
Resilient plant species don’t need large amounts of water, fertilizer, or pesticides. And fabric production uses gentler processing techniques, banishing bleaching and toxic dyes. Factories also focus on using less energy and minimizing waste.
Here is how sustainable plant-based fabrics are different from their conventional counterparts.
Cotton is soft, breathable, and versatile. Chances are, you’re wearing a cotton garment right now.
Organic Cotton
But, non-organic cotton has a dark side.
Growing cotton uses copious amounts of water. It’s estimated that producing a single shirt requires around 2700 liters of water. Plus, bleaching and dyeing are both chemical-heavy processes that leave large amounts of toxic waste. Pesticides are another issue. Cotton farming uses 16% of the world’s insecticides.
Organic cotton producers tackle this on every level. They avoid chemicals to cut pollution and soil erosion and limit water waste. They process the cotton without bleach and use natural dyes.
Organic Linen
Linen is a superhero fabric. Not only is it light, comfortable, and durable, but it comes from one of the most resilient plant species.
The flax plant requires very little water and grows well even in less-than-optimal soil. It’s resilient to insects, which means that flax doesn’t need pesticides to survive.
Even ordinary linen is entirely sustainable. But, choosing sustainably-grown linen is better. Growing flax is a labor-intensive process. By choosing sustainably farmed linen, you are supporting fair worker treatment. Organic linen production also banishes aggressive bleaching and dyeing.
Organic Hemp
Like linen, hemp doesn’t need a lot of water, fertilizer, or pesticides. It helps recover depleted soils through a process called phytoremediation.
Hemp is also considered a carbon-negative material. It captures CO2 from the atmosphere, which reduces air pollution, bringing down your clothes’ carbon footprint.
Green qualities aside, hemp has other extra perks. Hemp fabric protects you from sun radiation. It’s also antimicrobial and very breathable. All these qualities make it an excellent choice for outdoor activewear.
Unfortunately, hemp is closely related to cannabis, and some countries ban its production. As with any product, it’s always best to choose locally grown hemp. The US has recently lifted the hemp ban, so hopefully, we’ll be seeing a lot more hemp garments soon.
Ramie – Stinging Nettle
What is the first thing that comes to mind when you think of stinging nettle?
Stay away.
But, when it comes to nettle-derived fabrics, it’s probably time to change your mind.
Stinging nettle is incredibly resilient and easy to grow. It also has a unique fiber quality and versatility. Nettle fiber is hollow, which means it’s filled with air, providing natural insulation.
Twisting the yarn closed is excellent for cool summer clothes, while a looser weave keeps the hollow open and increases insulation for winter.
Fabric made from ramie fibers looks like linen.
Natural Rubber
Natural rubber comes from latex, a milky liquid harvested from the rubber plant. Harvesting the latex doesn’t damage the tree, so it’s a renewable and sustainable resource.
It’s a strong and highly flexible material, perfect for items that need high durability, like shoe soles. Rubber is also used to make latex garments—everything from a Catwoman Halloween costume to a high-fashion raincoat.
But, like with other natural fibers, we need to consider the human element of harvesting latex. Worker exploitation has happened a lot in rubber production and continues to be an issue.
Recycled rubber is another alternative. It uses fewer resources while maintaining the same quality as virgin material.
Are Semi-Synthetic or Man-Made Fabrics Sustainable?
Synthetic and semi-synthetic fibers can be eco friendly, too.
Sustainably produced artificial materials must have a low environmental impact. For instance, producers source wood fiber from sustainably managed forests. Or, as is the case with Cupro, use a waste product as the source material.
Plus, the factory should process the raw materials using a closed-loop system. This type of process reuses chemicals until they’re exhausted, rather than disposing of them on the first cycle. This approach increases efficiency and also minimizes pollution.
Lyocell (Tencel, Excel, Monocel)
Lyocell is a rayon fabric made from wood-derived cellulose. Since the wood pulp requires processing to turn into a fiber, it’s considered a semi-synthetic material.
Tencel, Excel, and Monocel are brand names of different lyocell producers. Each of them has its benefits. For instance, Tencel only uses wood from sustainably managed forests.
Lyocell is also produced in closed-loop systems, where up to 99.5% of the dissolving agents can be reused. Once again, the Tencel brand name is an excellent guarantee of quality. The company prioritizes transparency in every step of sourcing and manufacturing.
Modal
Modal is another rayon fabric made out of wood pulp.
In this case, the source material is beech trees. While it requires chemical solvents, processing takes place in a closed-loop system. Tencel brand modal production reuses 99% of the dissolving agents.
Eco friendly modal also prioritizes sustainable tree farming. Brands like Tencel use certified beech tree sources that don’t contribute to deforestation.
Sustainable Viscose
Like lyocell and modal, viscose is a rayon fabric made of wood pulp. It’s popular because of its low-cost and durability compared to materials like silk.
On the one hand, it is a plant-derived fiber that is biodegradable. And it doesn’t shed microplastics into our oceans.
But, unlike lyocell, it’s not always produced in a closed-loop environment, which puts to question whether it is a sustainable material.
Breaking down the wood to extract the cellulose requires harsh chemicals like ammonia and caustic soda. And, the waste products are polluting since they usually end up in waterways.
Ultimately, conventional viscose still harms the environment. Choosing closed-loop-produced, sustainably-sourced viscose is a way to go greener. Opting for lyocell or natural alternatives is an even better option.
Cupro
Cupro is a vegan silk alternative made out of recycled cotton linter.
Linter, the fiber around the cottonseed, is usually too small to be spun into yarn. That’s why traditional cotton producers discard it, and some even burn it.
To convert linter into useable material, Cupro producers need to use chemicals. Thus, it’s considered a semi-synthetic material. The good news is that the closed-loop systems used in production reuse solvents to limit water pollution.
Unlike natural silk, Cupro is a vegan material that uses waste materials. It looks and feels like silk, but it’s a more sustainable option.
Sustainable Bamboo
Most people consider bamboo to be an eco friendly resource. It’s a fast-growing plant with high yields yet doesn’t need watering. It’s also one of the best CO2-absorbing plants.
Fine bamboo rayon fabric has similar qualities to silk, yet it’s cheaper, more durable, and stretchable.
Unfortunately, bamboo processing methods can turn this raw material into an unsustainable choice. Unless the producer uses a closed-loop system, the process can be very chemical-intensive.
What is more, bamboo farming is often unsustainable.
China is the world’s primary bamboo exporter yet has few agricultural or environmental standards in place. Producers plant bamboo on large-scale monoculture farms where farmers use pesticides to increase yields. The country is known for less-than-ethical labor practices.
While it is better than conventional cotton or polyester fabric, try to look for brands that are transparent about sourcing.
Can Animal Derived Materials Be Sustainable?
Wool and leather are some of the oldest materials used for clothing. They are durable and provide good insulation from the elements. Yet, today these traditional materials often involve animal cruelty and adverse environmental outcomes.
Breeding animals can contribute to overgrazing and methane pollution. And, producing the fabric from raw materials can be a highly toxic process. For example, traditional leather tanning is harmful to the environment and detrimental to human health.
But, animal-based fabrics can be sustainable if producers embrace ethical and ecological practices.
Alpaca Wool
Many consider Alpaca wool one of the most eco friendly wool materials.
Unlike sheep, alpacas are very efficient eaters and rarely cause overgrazing. They’re also bred in their natural habitat, the Peruvian mountains, and not harmed when sheared for their fleece.
Alpaca wool production supports local communities. It often contributes to economic growth in underprivileged regions.
Yak Wool
Yak are large bovines who breed in the Himalayan region. Their wool is soft and highly insulating. It is 30% warmer than sheep wool.
Yaks live in more or less the same regions as cashmere goats, and their wool is often cited as a cashmere alternative.
But, unlike goats, yaks have a “lighter step” that doesn’t trample the soil underneath their feet. Animals like goats and sheep can cause overgrazing leading to grassland desertification.
Yak wool production can also be beneficial for the producing communities. Companies like Kora partner with Tibetan wool cooperatives to buy the wool. As a result, nomadic families earn a sustainable income. Other brands have also established production centers within remote villages to provide employment.
Camel Wool
Camel wool is another ethical alternative to other animal-derived fibers.
Like the yak, the Bactrian camel sheds naturally, which means no shearing and less harm for the animal. These camels are usually bred in small herds by family farmers.
Even better, camel wool doesn’t need harsh chemicals or dyes, further reducing its environmental impact.
Peace Silk
In traditional silk production, the silkworms are killed inside their cocoon. The producer can then unwind the cocoon in a single, unbroken filament to get the silk thread.
Most would consider this practice animal cruelty that causes undue suffering.
Peace silk is a non-violent alternative. Silkworms complete metamorphosis and get out of the cocoon naturally. But, the process takes longer; thus, cruelty-free silk takes longer to produce.
Peace silk is a better alternative than traditional silk, but also consider other options such as Cupro.
Responsible Wool
Sheep wool is one of the most popular and oldest materials in the world. It is biodegradable, renewable, and durable.
Unfortunately, its modern-day ethics and sustainability are debatable.
The most sustainable option is wool sourced from small-scale producers. They raise sheep in low-density flocks and hand shear to prevent injury. Responsible production also rejects gruesome practices like mulesing.
Look for brands that source wool from producers that follow the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS).
Responsible Cashmere
Cashmere is one of the fashion industry’s favorite materials. Lightweight, warm, and soft, it’s a staple in many people’s winter wardrobes.
Responsible producers harvest from cashmere goats using hand combing techniques that don’t harm the animal and preserve fiber integrity. Ethical cashmere companies also support better working conditions for goat herders.
Responsible Leather
The ugly fact about leather is that it can never be animal-friendly. Natural leather will always be an animal product; however, ethical farming reduces animal suffering.
That said, responsible leather can and does exist.
For one, this type of leather comes from animals killed for meat production rather than leather-specific breeds. In that sense, some consider it a byproduct of another industry.
Ethical farming also ensures that animals have the best quality of life that they can. At the very least, it means access to the outdoors, smaller herds, and plenty of space for grazing.
Eco friendly leather is also processed more sustainably than traditional leather. Producers use toxin-free tanning and ensure worker safety.
Look for brands that are transparent about their leather sourcing and production.
Responsible Down
Down is lightweight and insulating, making it an excellent insulating material. But, it also comes from live animals, and often geese are killed for their feathers.
Responsible down is sourced without harming the animals. Geese have a natural molting period, and removing the feathers during this time doesn’t hurt the bird.
The Responsible Down Standard (RDS) program further certifies the humane treatment of geese. Birds are raised in an environment where they express their natural behaviors, live in healthy conditions, and do not suffer pain or distress.
Five Recycled Clothing Materials to Know About
Sustainable fashion is all about minimizing environmental impact. Although we can sustainably source new materials, recycling and repurposing are always better.
Recycled fabrics reduce the amount of waste in landfills. They also use less water and energy and fewer chemicals than “virgin” fabrics.
Recycled Polyester
Single-use plastics have been clogging up our land and oceans for decades now. The excellent news is that manufacturers can recycle PET plastics to produce rPET polyester fabrics, tackling two problems simultaneously.
Recycled polyester is one of the most versatile eco friendly materials you can find. From activewear to sustainable shoes, rPET can replace conventional synthetics.
But, as wonderful as saving plastic from the landfill may be, recycled polyester still breaks down with every wash. Tiny microplastic particles make their way into wastewater and the seas and oceans.
While rPET sheds less than virgin polyester, natural fibers are still better. Make sure you also reduce your washing and spot-clean instead. The less you wash your polyester, the less it will break down.
Recycled Nylon (aka Econyl)
Econyl is no different than regular nylon, except it’s “living a second life.”
Recycling nylon reduces landfill waste and uses fewer resources than virgin nylon production. Sadly, like polyester, nylon releases microplastics into the environment.
It’s an excellent choice for eco friendly swimwear, but, once again, choose plant-derived fabrics whenever you can.
Recycled Cotton
Recycled cotton is another excellent option because it doesn’t produce anything new. Rather than ending up in a landfill, cotton waste and old cotton clothes get a second life.
When it comes to recycling cotton, there are two options.
Post-industrial recycling uses the byproducts of cotton or clothes production. The source material could be fabric scraps, defective yarn, selvage from weaving, etc.
Post-consumer recycled cotton is made from used garments and home textiles.
Both types of recycling divert fashion waste from landfills. They also need less water and energy than virgin cotton. Plus, since the material is often dyed, fewer chemicals are used in its second processing.
But, there is one crucial thing to know. Recycled cotton is usually thinner and more brittle than newly produced cotton. Because of this, producers can legally mix in virgin fibers or up to 4% synthetics to improve their strength, which can impact the item’s sustainability.
Recycled Wool
Recycled, reclaimed, or shoddy wool is made by tearing the original textile and respinning the fibers. It’s a waste-reducing, cruelty-free way to get new wool garments, but it does have its downsides.
Reclaimed wool is usually of lower quality than virgin material. The fiber is damaged during tearing and respinning, and the resulting material feels harsher or looks fuzzier.
This kind of wool is usually best reserved for home textiles, wool filling, or garments that don’t need to be exceptionally soft.
Recycled Leather
Leather is recycled by treating the scraps with resin, and gluing it together to produce new material. Leather recycling companies also favor vegetable tanning and non-toxic chemicals.
The scraps, however, still come from tanneries and leather manufacturers. Recycled leather is also not the same as repurposed material. The latter comes from second-hand goods and doesn’t necessarily support the leather industry.
Buying second-hand leather goods is still a more sustainable option than recycled leather.
Innovative Sustainable Fabrics That Are Revolutionizing Fashion
Technology has revolutionized the environmental movement, and eco friendly fabrics are no exception.
Here are some of the most exciting novel projects out there.
Piñatex
Piñatex is a sustainably sourced leather alternative made from a natural waste product. Pineapple leaves are usually discarded by farmers, or even worse, they are burned. Piñatex uses leaf fiber to produce a sustainable fabric. Farming communities also gain an extra stream of income in the process.
Making faux leather consumes very little water or electricity. Plus, Piñatex doesn’t need tanning, a chemical-heavy process that harms both workers and the environment.
There is one catch, though.
Unlike other plant-derived fabrics, Piñatex is not fully biodegradable. The production process involves petroleum, and the finished product contains trace amounts.
Apple Skin
Apple Skin is another innovative project that turns waste into something valuable and beautiful. Skin and core waste from the food industry are processed to become a vegan leather alternative.
Apple Skin tackles two problems at once. It’s a sustainable, cruelty-free leather material that doesn’t need toxin-heavy tanning. Plus, making Apple Skin reduces waste in the food industry.
Did you know that farmers leave up to 40% of the harvest on the fields? It’s not because the apples are spoiled; it’s that they’re not “beautiful enough” for supermarkets. Not only is a good product wasted, but so are the resources used for producing it.
Orange Fiber
Orange Fiber is another waste-to-fashion project, citrus-derived silk made from juice industry byproducts.
Producers process the orange peels to extract cellulose, then spin it into silk. The finished product is biodegradable and sustainable by design.
Companies like H&M and Salvatore Ferragamo are already jumping on board, and we’re excited to see this project grow!
Cork Leather
Cork is a fantastic, plant-based alternative to traditional leather. Not only is it as sturdy as natural leather, but it also has extra perks.
Cork leather is stain-resistant and repels water. It’s great for items like laptop bags, keeping your valuables safe. Water resistance also means that cork ages without deteriorating. Plus, its unique honeycomb structure makes it highly resistant to scratches and mechanical damage. Even NASA uses cork materials!
Sturdiness aside, cork leather is also one of the softest materials you can choose. Smooth to the touch, it is surprisingly strong against wear-and-tear, making it one of our favorite vegan leather.
SCOBY Leather
SCOBY leather or kombucha leather is made out of bacteria and yeast.
If you’re making kombucha, the SCOBY will feed on the nutrients in tea and grow thicker with each brew. It’s not a single species; the SCOBY is a symbiotic culture of lactic acid bacteria, acetic acid bacteria, and yeast. As they grow, they form a cellulose biofilm, and cellulose fiber can be made into fabrics.
SCOBY fabric looks close to animal-derived leather. Unlike “conventional” vegan leathers, SCOBY is 100% biodegradable. Finally, just like orange, pineapple, and apple skin fabrics, SCOBY leather uses a byproduct from the tea industry. Talk about closed-loop production!
Brewed Protein
Brewed protein is a polymer that doesn’t need petroleum; instead, it uses fermentation.
Like brewing beer, creating this novel material starts with microbes and sugar. During fermentation, genetically modified microorganisms produce proteins that aren’t found in nature.
The manufacturer can control protein properties to produce sustainable and high-quality polymers. The fibers can then be spun into yarn and turned into garments.
For the time being, you can only buy brewed protein clothes from The North Face Japan, but this is one project we’re following with lots of hope.
Woocoa
Can you make wool without using sheep?
A group of Colombian students from the University of Bogota recently came up with an animal-free invention. Their wool uses coconut fiber and hemp, softened using mushroom enzymes.
Not only does the finished product look and feel like wool, but it doesn’t need bleaching before dyeing.
Woocoa is a PETA-prize-winning project yet to market, but it’s already a promising alternative to traditional wool.
Qmonos Spider Silk
Spider silk is what it sounds like. It’s a silk material that uses a protein fiber like spiders spin.
The Qmonos product is based on natural spider silk but uses microorganisms to make the protein. The microbes ferment, producing the material. It is then harvested and spun into yarn.
Qmonos spider silk is four times stronger than steel, boasting impressive durability like the natural material.
Conclusion
There is no single sustainable fabric to rule them all. Instead, different options have varying environmental benefits and qualities. Many also provide a more ethical alternative to mass-produced materials.
Several industry certifications help us make better choices when shopping for textile products. Look for these certifications:
- Sustainable cotton: Better Cotton Initiative
- Organic fiber content: GOTS, OCS and OE-100
- Free from harmful substances: Oeko-Tex
- Sustainable wool: Responsible Wool Standard
- Sustainable down: Responsible Down Standard
- Ethically produced: Fair Trade Certified
- Sustainable business practices: Certified B Corporation
But keep in mind that small producers may not have the resources to become certified. Above all, choose companies that openly share information about their sourcing and business practices.
Companies realize consumers are now paying attention to sourcing and production details. Many publish this information on their websites and garment tags. But, as with any eco friendly products, keep your eye out for any greenwashing.