How much would you pay for a T-shirt?
Fast fashion retailers will sell it to you for less than $10. It’s normal, almost expected, to see impossibly low prices on mass-produced garments.
Cheap clothing is everywhere, which makes it hard to justify spending more. Many companies take advantage of poor environmental protection laws. Others may exploit poor workers’ rights in developing countries. As a result, the price might be low, but the cost is very high.
Sustainable fashion might be great for the environment, but what about your wallet? Cost is one of the first struggles people have when making greener choices.
Why is sustainable clothing so expensive?
Part of the reason is our frame of reference and expectations based on fast fashion pricing. We’re unaware of the cost-cutting that goes on behind the scenes.
In this article, we’ll talk about:
- Why sustainable fashion tends to come with a higher price tag
- What you’re paying for when you choose green brands
- Why is sustainable clothing not as pricey as you think
Why Is Sustainable Clothing Usually More Expensive?
Let’s be honest.
If you are only comparing price tags, sustainable clothing tends to be more expensive. Here are the main reasons why that is:
First, sustainable fabrics tend to be more expensive to produce. Sustainable brands focus on safety and waste reduction. Hence, they often use longer, more labor-intensive processes to make the fabric.
For instance, conventional leather tanning uses chromium salts. These chemicals are carcinogenic, and we’ve known about this for centuries. Still, chrome-tanned leather is what you will find in most fast fashion stores.
Sustainable brands look for ethical alternatives to leather and favor vegetable tanning. It is a gentler, safer process, but it’s also more expensive. It requires more skills and more time from the workers. So the higher cost of labor and material translates into pricier fabrics.
The same principle applies to every step of sustainable clothing production.
Most high street brands have a profits-first approach. They accept that cost savings may lead to unethical practices. Dumping toxic waste into the environment, for instance, is an acceptable cost saving.
Often, this also means the end product is low-quality. From the way the fabric is cut to the stitching, conventionally-produced garments are rarely made to last. Not only does this keep them cheap, but it also keeps you going back for new clothes every season.
Sustainable brands keep ethical values at the forefront of their business model.
Eco friendly producers use better raw materials and ensure environmental neutrality. They also treat workers fairly and consider their impact on the greater community.
Sustainable clothing is pricier than mass-produced alternatives. But, it is also more durable and of higher quality.
Is Sustainable Fashion a Luxury?
Some sustainable pieces cost as much as your monthly rent.
Sustainable fashion can be a luxury item like traditional fashion. You might be paying for exclusivity, a designer name, or new technology.
Even so, many up-and-coming brands make sustainable apparel at lower prices. Sustainability is not a luxury idea.
Conversely, does this mean that every expensive product is good for the environment? Absolutely not. Sometimes it’s a case of a luxury brand trying to attract attention by using sustainability as a marketing strategy.
The Cost of Sustainable Materials
The quality of raw materials is one of the main reasons sustainable clothing is pricier than non-sustainable options.
Let’s take regular vs. sustainable cotton as an example.
Cotton is a notoriously thirsty plant. A conventionally-produced cotton T-shirt takes a whopping 2700 liters of water to make. This amount includes the water used in growing the plant and the water contaminated during the bleaching and dyeing process.
Organic cotton is 80% rain-fed. This practice reduces water waste but means lower yields and higher prices. Gentler dyes are also more expensive, and so are the non-toxic chemicals for pest control.
It even goes back to the seeds. Conventional farming uses genetically modified crops. But, organic cotton is woven from non-GMO cultures. These seeds are pricier, and they tend to produce lower yields.
There is an added expectation of fair and cruelty-free treatment with animal-derived fabrics.
For instance, responsibly obtained wool does not harm the sheep. Instead, sheep are raised to live happy, free-range lives and only shorn in the spring when they no longer need long coats to keep warm. The shearers use traditional hand shearing methods being careful not to cut the sheep. Hand shearing takes more time and makes production less efficient. Both increase costs.
Ultimately, the higher price of raw materials is the cost of prioritizing the environment. Eco friendly production isn’t the cheapest way to do things, but it is the way that doesn’t harm our planet.
The Cost of Paying Living Wages
Sustainable clothing doesn’t only mean eco friendly. Sustainability includes fair labor conditions and transparency throughout the supply chain.
Labor is one of the main costs in clothing production. And, there is a considerable difference between ethical and profit-first thinking.
Let’s start with living wages.
To cut costs, most companies make clothes in third-world countries. Labor costs are lower in these regions, and worker protection laws are practically non-existent. Poverty drives people to take any job they can.
In Bangladesh, the second-biggest clothing exporter to the US, the estimated living wage is $189 per month. This amount would be enough to provide a family with food, shelter, and education.
It is already relatively low, right?
Fast fashion producers know that they can go lower. The legal minimum wage in Bangladesh is around $94 (8,000 takas) per month.
And Bangladeshi suppliers have been found to abuse labor rights. Workers were threatened and abused if they tried to form unions. Moreover, protesting for better pay goes unheard. Some factory owners have gone as far as enlisting the help of local criminal organizations.
Besides, paying a living wage isn’t the only aspect of running an ethical workplace. Many countries lack good government programs. Hence, companies prioritize adequate medical care, child care, and maternity leave. Additionally, support for programs that improve the community is also essential.
Moreover, tailors aren’t the only employees involved in the textile industry. From farmers to store clerks, all employees should be treated well. Sustainable producers focus on this, which translates into higher production costs.
Choosing an online, direct-to-consumer sales model helps brands save costs.
Costs associated with running a storefront can go towards research and development—for example, improved production processes or new community initiatives.
During a global pandemic, online shopping is safer for both buyers and workers.
Economies of Scale
Large-scale production will always be cheaper. Start-up costs are high, but once processes become efficient, the price-per-item drops significantly.
Right now, sustainable clothing is still a smaller market. Most companies make products ‘just-in-time’ for consumers.
This approach reduces textile waste, and fewer unsold items go to landfills. But, it also increases the price of each item.
As the sustainable fashion movement gains traction, more companies will use economies of scale. By supporting this business model, you are helping to get the industry to this point sooner. It will mean less expensive, but better clothes for all.
The True Cost of a Garment
We talked about the reasons why price tags are higher on sustainable clothing. But, here is something we haven’t covered:
Is sustainable clothing, in fact, expensive?
Let’s consider the cost-per-wear:
If you buy a $20 dress and only wear it once, the cost-per-wear is $20.
A versatile, $200 dress you wear all summer (let’s say 20 different times throughout the warmer months) costs $10 per year.
If it’s well-made, you will be able to enjoy it for more than one season. The more you wear it, the lower the price.
The fast-fashion impulse is to keep buying new pieces. But mass-produced clothes are of lower quality, so you get less use out of them. Besides, companies like H&M churn out 50+ “micro seasons” of clothes. These are trendy clothes, sure, but as they go out of fashion, you’ll be back for more.
Sustainable clothing is an investment piece, not an impulse buy.
A well-made, versatile garment will serve you for years to come. Often, it’s no more expensive to dress this way, and it could even be cheaper.
You are Voting With Your Wallet
But, as a consumer, choosing sustainable products isn’t about the price. Sustainable companies have a values-first, profit-second approach. Hence, it is also our responsibility to be conscious of the impact of our shopping habits.
When you buy from a brand, you’re supporting the change you would like to see in the world.
Sometimes, it might not feel like you’re making a difference. After all, not buying one $5 T-shirt won’t destroy Zara’s whole business, right? Yet, when enough people make a sustainable choice, ethical brands get the support they need. And, large companies feel the pressure to change their ways.
Besides, the cost of the garment isn’t the only thing that goes into the price you pay.
Initiatives like 1% for the Planet help bring another layer of social and ecological responsibility into the industry. Businesses donate at least one percent of their annual sales to preserving the environment. The same goes for Certified B Corporations who pledge to give back to the community and contribute to environmental causes.
So, next time you’re buying a new garment, consider it an investment both in your wardrobe and the kind of change you want to see in the world of fashion.
Another way to support change without buying new garments is by buying pre-owned clothes and accessories. Thrifting in your local community is one way to go. But, these days there are many online options as well. Check out our article about sustainable fashion to learn about different online platforms and the type of items you can buy online.
Conclusion
Right now, sustainable garments are pricier than their mass-produced counterparts. Some ethical brands charge prices that aren’t accessible to everybody, but not to boost their profits.
The price difference goes towards supporting an investment-based, values-first business model and, for instance, paying workers fair wages, eliminating toxic waste, and reducing the amount of carbon in our atmosphere. Sustainable businesses are putting money toward a cleaner, more equal world.
That said, sustainable fashion is not a one-size-fits-all solution. Even if your budget can’t stretch to shop from higher-end, certified organic brands, you can still make better choices.
Dressing sustainably is about being intentional with your consumption. It starts with responsible shopping, but it’s not limited to new purchases.
Whether you buy them from a second-hand shop or a luxury resale platform, pre-loved garments are a great way to embrace sustainable values. The same goes for repurposing old items or simply wearing out the clothing you already have. Renting separate pieces or even entire capsules is another option.
If anything, buying a new garment is a privilege and a chance to support reputable businesses. The question to ask isn’t “Why is sustainable clothing so expensive?” but rather, “What am I paying for when I shop sustainably?” And the answer, we believe, will make you feel pretty good about your investment.